it has been 2 years working on a small project, the digital camera that can see a live view underground way down to 40 meters by just doing some modifications to almost any CCD image sensor or CMOS, cameras.
I noted discussions since year 2012 regarding this weird phenomenon a guy with some sort of black plastic bag in Iran gives you a clear video of what is underground and others are requesting help from the forum many of you did not believe the stories just like I did 2 years ago until I decided to make one my self.
the result will amaze you all.....
the camera can go as far as we tested at 40 meters the image is sharp and clear and so magnified ina a form that you can talk to your self although you can find some inconvenient bugs that can't control, it works great
I'm sending you guys some videos and some other links for others that they made this camera works fine I did not see anywhere in the world making this tech besides turkey Jordan Iran Iraq Lebanon,
from the view of science, it was clear by some universities and researchers that this is so different than 3D devices and other GPR instruments it is simply the use of optical imaginary or virtual view of the focal point while we focus in and leaving behind the real view now somebody will tell me hey> the CCD image sensor can't see the virtual image scientist hardly reached this image sensor in 2018! the answer is the trick of how to make your camera able to capture this image.
now making and modifying such a device requires some skills "not much" in electronics but more knowledge in physics and some principles of radiation patterns that infrared can cause when they cross out when they are in the same phase and wavelength especially when they come out from the same source, splitting the beam then merge it right in front of your camera lens.
a brief and fast explanation that may most of you understand the main concept but in order to do what I did you may need some time if you really want to have this tool next to you when looking for something on the field I'm not saying it should be a stand-alone device it is a must to add on to what you have to make sure that everything is ok as some friends of mine detected buried mines underground using this camera it saved their lives
will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of such a camera
the real view you will see is real and as if you are just filming the target right up the object as it if was in front of you, some times color can be noted also in some sort of metals the size and shape of target magnified so you can see small details even if your target is tens of meters underground no matter what type of soil as long as some metal man-made or any man-made artifact is under the ground the camera will see it, the best and easy find if cavity with metals inside then it is a real goal.. imagine the camera is hung inside the cave in the top of it and is looking downwards and you are watching live! but the camera in fact is with your hand above the ground half an inch only from the dirt.
what is not so good if you don't make you camera excellent fit it will lead you to the unidirectional way that will show you something but, in fact, it is somewhere around you in a radius could reach 30 meters or even more and the camera then will become absolute due to the incorrect directional viewing for example if your camera directed with a tilt to the south and it is easy to show you a cave behind you and you can enjoy viewing the target but you will never know how deep or where exactly if you don't balance your camera will enough by some tools
again the camera easy to make it but in order to have a great deal you need to make it right
get yourself any of the shelf USB digital camera especially those old laptop cameras from Logitech I prefer the CCD image sensor rather than CMOS
disassemble it ake out the UV-IR filter sometimes it can be attached in top of the image sensor or in other types attached behind the lens nearby the sensor
take the lens out and you may find inside 4 or 5 lenses keep only one the convex it may be the second from the front of the lens or the first one keep the little black plastic whole away from the lens about 9mm "this will help not to let much light to enter and help to prevent the Corona effect " please read about corona program 1968 USA"
attach the lens in a black tube just the size bigger than your image sensor in diameter
50 mm long that is about almost 2 inches let the lens exactly 50mm away from the sensor and the only part in between is the little black plastic piece and it will be near the lens about 9mm that is the most focal length of convex lenses in such camera
the system is using only one lens and far away 50mm in order to have an almost microscopic image in your laptop once you are done test the image when you place any book from inside letters you should see the one letter as big as 3 or 4 times your monitor in other words the magnification is almost 200 times or even more you may need some sort of light to test
if your image is sharp and clear fixup your black tube by any none metallic epoxy on board of the camera having much care not to let any drop over your image sensor you may need to fix the lens inside the body that was originally having the lens and other lenses or you may find your way to fix it in front of your black tube
step two
find 2 or more LED 940Nm infrared and get the resistor corresponding to let them both in serial if we get 5v out the USB cable"don't use the LED outlets was originally installed on your board the current is designed for white LEDs and your infrared LEDs needs less power and current" then you may need 0.380 Ohm you can find on the net a calculator to help you hay many ohms the size of your resistor to let 2 LED 5mm infrared
in serial powered by 5vdc, it is important to have them both the same kind and freq in order to produce a pattern to generate radiation "small amount don't worry unharmful"
place the LEDs so close to your lens in almost 30 degrees that will make your spot beam hits almost 9mm to 12mm in front the lens which is the focal distance of it and not to let the LEDs get further more than the lens means nearby the lens and tube but with a degree and will not exceed the length of the tube otherwise the ground will damage them
once you're done making a little test on the book the same letters you tested and see if you get a clear image if ok now get a blue congo sheet cut a small round piece and find a way to attach in front of your lens or find a filter of 940nm and use it but you need to find a ring to separate the lens from the LEDs otherwise you will get some portion of the light reflected into the image sensor you can then use to cover the camera any polarized lens not magnified
but your camera in a plastic tube and get a rubber of front car axel may be large enough about10 or 15 cm this will be set on the ground to help you maneuver and search at the same time to prevent any visible light to get to your sensor
now your camera is ready, place it nearby any known manhole and is a must to find soil and start looking slowly and in a circular motion then every once in a while you press down the camera so you will not be able to see the magnified ground repeat the process in going from the real view image to the unseen virtual image until at sudden you will see the void or cavity or metal
good luck guys let me know if your test goes well
some examples of what this camera can do some links to share
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STCIEc9a6Rc
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJIfO2ZB64s
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRwJk2Yc08A
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tAnUbu7rCI
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Lh7OB4iF98
now I'm trying to upload some video from my pc and sending you guys the link
all that I'm looking for ..please if you guys have ideas videos post them here so we all learn
note this is a copy of what i posted on LRL website
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http://www.thunting.com/smf/index.php/topic,70948.msg330435.html#msg330435
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